Lawn and Tree Spraying, LLC

Introducing our
*Five Step Lawn Care Program*
Step 1: Apply Pre-Emergent for Summer Annual Seeds

Pre-emergent herbicides are spread on the lawn before certain weeds sprout. It works during the germination process of the weeds. Summer annuals germinate in the spring and reach maturity in the fall. Pre-emergence herbicides for summer annuals must be applied in the spring between February and April. Examples of summer annuals include crabgrass, knotweed, and foxtail.

Step 2: Apply Spring Fertilizer

There are three main ingredients in lawn fertilizer. These are Nitrogen, which promotes growth and greening ("up"), phosphorous which aids root development ("down"), and potassium, which fortifies the grass against disease, cold, and insects. Warm-season grasses like Bermuda and Zoysia flourish during the warmer summer months, and therefore tend to require fertilizing shortly after green-up in the spring, and again in the late summer months.  Spring fertilization should be done between May and July with a higher amount of Nitrogen. 

Step 3: Apply Post-Emergent Weed Control

Post emergent weed control is a herbicide used to kill weeds after they have germinated. This type of weed killer is used once the initial spring season has begun and plants have started to grow. Post emergent herbicide is applied directly to the leaves of the plant and travels down the stem to the root system. These are mostly used to control specific broadleaf weeds like dandelions and curly dock. They don't kill other weeds or grasses. Post emergent is applied April through May when soil temperatures are between 70 and 90 degrees F. 

Step 4: Apply Fall Fertilizer

Fertilizing your yard during the fall can be essential to maintaining a healthy lawn, especially if you have cool-season turfgrasses like bluegrass, fescue, and ryegrass. Because fertilizer has a better chance at getting down to the roots in the fall--the part of your grass that really needs the nutrients--fall is the most important time to fertilize. The three main ingredients in lawn fertilizer are Nitrogen, which promotes growth and greening ("up"), phosphorous which aids root development ("down"), and potassium, which fortifies the grass against disease, cold, and insects. Fall fertilizing should be done between September and October. 

Step 5: Apply Pre-Emergent for Winter Annual Seeds

Pre-emergent herbicides are spread on the lawn before certain weeds sprout. It works during the germination process of the weeds. Winter annuals germinate in the fall and if you apply pre-emergence herbicides for winter annuals in the spring, the herbicide will probably be broken down by soil microbes before the seeds germinate, and the application will be wasted. Examples of winter annuals include annual bluegrass and common chickweed. Apply pre-emergent herbicides for these weeds later, in the summer and before spring arrives. For best results apply pre-emergent herbicides from early October through November. 
Other Lawn Services
Lawn Spraying for Weed and Pest Control

Not only do Grubs kill plants, shrubs and grass by eating on their roots, their presence tends to attract all kinds of animals. Moles, armadillos, mice, rats, gophers and raccoons are just some of the animals that will likely tear up and pull apart lawns, in an effort to find grubs.  They “love” grubs and lawns, which have an active grub population, will undoubtedly start to experience animal digging and damage. If you already have this activity you need to put an end to it as soon as possible, because turf which is in a weakened state already, will die off from all of the digging.
Lawn Fertilizing

When natural soil processes do not provide adequate supplies of these essential elements, fertilizer can be applied to maintain optimum growth. The purpose of fertilizing a lawn is to add the necessary nutrients in the required amounts and at the proper time to achieve desirable lawn qualities and healthy grass.  Healthy lawns depend on many factors including adequate water.

Lawn Aeration

Lawn Aeration is essential for maintaining a healthy lawn.  Over time the soil becomes compacted, which prohibits air and water from becoming absorbed into the soil.  Compaction is caused when the air is displaced from the soil by surface compression which in turn breaks down the soil structure resulting in poor quality growing conditions. When compaction occurs and the air is displaced this inhibits drainage, encourages shallow rooted grasses like annual meadow grass. If lawns are heavily used there is a good chance that they will become compacted and will need some kind of aeration program. There are several machines and types of aeration equipment available that can be used to bring your lawn back into a healthy condition. However, core aeration is one of the most beneficial for your lawn. The process of core aeration opens up the lawn by removing small plugs of soil, which allows more air, water and nutrients to reach the root zone. This leads to better plant growth. The microorganisms in the plugs that remain on the surface will dissolve back into the thatch layer to help it breakdown, naturally. The process is a proven method for reducing soil compaction.

Lawn De-Thatching

Thatch is a layer of cut grass, plant stems, roots, leaves and other debris that collects on the soil, below live blades of grass that form the surface of your lawn. There are various reasons that thatch problems can occur. These reasons may include a combination of biological, cultural, and environmental factors. Heavy nitrogen fertilizer applications or overwatering can also contribute to thatch, because they cause the lawn to grow excessively fast. It is important to avoid over fertilizing and over watering. Grass clippings from mowing do not contribute to thatch. However, once a thatch layer has developed, clippings may speed its formation. A healthy lawn should have no more than 1/2/ inch of thatch build up. The benefit of de-thatching is a healthier lawn resulting from the increased amount of water and nutrients penetrating the soil. This allows grass to develop a deeper root system, which leads to thicker, heartier lawns. Regular de-thatching also removes thick under layers which hold moisture and lead to fungal and pest infestations. De-thatching should be done in late spring or early fall. De-thatching when grass is actively growing assures that any existing bare spots, or grass roots torn out by the process, will fill in quickly with new growth. Experts recommend de-thatching your lawn once every two or three years. However, if your lawn is prone to distress it may need de-thatching each year.

Over Seeding

The optimum time to seed cool-season turf grasses is during September.  This is when nature establishes cool-season grasses; therefore, the best results with the least amount of work occur at that time.  Do not delay seeding or the grass will not establish sufficiently before winter and weeds like henbit and chickweed become a problem.  March and April are second choices for seeding but are a distant second at best. The optimum time to over seed warm-season grass is in late spring to early summer.